The Izmir issue, November 2026
Izmir
Izmir operates on a different frequency than other Turkish metropolises.
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The Izmir reading list
All 24 Izmir stories
Tours and ticketsThe lead story
Walking the Marble Streets of Ephesus Downhill from Izmir
How to walk Ephesus the easy way, downhill from the Upper Gate, plus which add-on tickets earn their money and which ten minutes you can skip.
Joris van der Velde
Tours and tickets
Walking Sardis from Izmir, Where Coins Were Invented
The Lydian capital 92 km east of Izmir has two gates, one shared €3 ticket and a stream that paid for the world's first coinage. Here is how to do it properly, on a coach or on your own.
Joris van der Velde
Tours and tickets
Climbing Pergamon's Acropolis in a Day from Izmir
What is still standing on the hilltop terraces above Bergama, what the cable car costs, and how to build the rest of the day around them.
Joris van der Velde
Tours and tickets
Early Hours at the House of the Virgin Mary near Izmir
The shrine on Bülbül Dağı opens at 08:00 and sits five minutes above the Upper Gate at Ephesus. Bring a card, because the turnstile takes nothing else.
Joris van der Velde
Three Days in Izmir Without a Car
A tested three-day route through Izmir on foot, by public ferry and on the tram, with opening hours, real prices and the bookings you have to make before you fly.
Joris van der Velde
More from the Izmir issue
Markets, Wetlands and Village Theatre Beyond Izmir's Centre
Joris van der Velde
İzmir's August Concert Week: 11–16 August 2026
Joris van der Velde
Salt, Rakı and the Sea: How Izmir Eats the Aegean
Melis Aydın
Izmir in Late September When the Heat Finally Breaks
Joris van der Velde
Walking Şirince, the Izmir hill village of lace and wine
Joris van der Velde
The Longest Breakfast: Inside Izmir's Serpme Kahvaltı Ritual
Joris van der Velde
Kadifekale and the walk down into old İzmir
Joris van der Velde
Izmir's Boyoz Trail: Where the City Breakfasts First
Joris van der Velde
Walking Izmir's Kemeraltı bazaar from Konak to Basmane
Joris van der Velde
The Weekend West of Izmir in Çeşme and Alaçatı
Joris van der Velde
Çeşme, the castle town on the Izmir peninsula
Joris van der Velde
Tours and tickets
The Single Column That Was the Temple of Artemis Near Izmir
Joris van der Velde
Eski Foça, Izmir's old harbour town, walked end to end
Joris van der Velde
Alaçatı in Izmir, from the windmills to the lagoon
Joris van der Velde
Inside the castle walls at Sığacık, Izmir's fishing village
Joris van der Velde
Urla, the Izmir town of olive presses and starred tables
Joris van der Velde
The Lifts and Stairways That Get You Up Izmir
Joris van der Velde
Walking Izmir's Kordon Before the City Wakes
Joris van der Velde
The Agora of Smyrna: Walking Izmir's Ancient Heart in a Modern City
Joris van der Velde
An insider’s read on Izmir
Historically known as Smyrna, this ancient port city has spent millennia trading across the Mediterranean. Rebuilt after the devastating fire of 1922, modern Izmir emerged as a bastion of secularism and progressive Turkish culture. The legacy of its Levantine, Greek, and Jewish communities still echoes in the architecture of Alsancak, the synagogues of Karataş, and the culinary traditions of the Kemeraltı bazaar.
Today, its character is fiercely independent, relaxed, and deeply democratic.
While it is Turkey's third-largest city, it lacks the chaotic intensity of a typical mega-city.
From our Izmir guide
14 neighbourhoods, 14 ways to stay
Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.
Alsancak
First-time visitors and nightlife seekers. The trade-off is constant noise and high traffic congestion.
The cosmopolitan heart of the city, characterized by grid-patterned streets, historic Levantine stone houses, trendy boutiques, and a dense concentration of bars and cafes.
Where to stay Mid-range boutique hotels and business-friendly luxury properties near the waterfront.
Stay in Alsancak
Konak
History enthusiasts and street food lovers. The trade-off is that the area becomes quiet and desolate after the bazaar closes at sunset.
The historic and administrative hub, home to grand government buildings, open plazas, and the sprawling labyrinth of the Kemeraltı bazaar.
Where to stay Characterful boutique hotels converted from historic caravanserais or modern business hotels.
Stay in Konak
Karşıyaka
Slow travelers wanting a local, non-touristy experience. The trade-off is the distance from major historical sights.
A progressive, residential district on the northern shore of the gulf with a fierce local identity, pedestrianized shopping streets, and a relaxed family vibe.
Where to stay Modern mid-range hotels along the waterfront.
Stay in Karşıyaka
Bostanlı
Younger travelers and foodies looking for contemporary dining. The trade-off is a complete lack of historical architecture.
A trendy, upscale sub-district of Karşıyaka filled with third-wave coffee shops, craft beer bars, and modern apartment blocks.
Where to stay Serviced apartments and boutique rentals.
Stay in Bostanlı
Karataş
Photographers and those seeking a quiet, scenic base. The trade-off is steep walking climbs and limited dining options.
The historic Jewish quarter, built on steep cliffs overlooking the sea, featuring narrow streets, old stone houses, and a quiet, nostalgic atmosphere.
Where to stay Small, family-run guesthouses.
Stay in Karataş
Bornova
Budget travelers and those interested in alternative music. The trade-off is the lack of sea views and intense summer heat.
An inland university district dominated by student life, leafy campuses, lively cafes, and historic Levantine mansions hidden behind high walls.
Where to stay Budget-friendly student hostels and basic business hotels.
Stay in Bornova
Kemeraltı
İzmir’s atmospheric historic bazaar is a full half-day of shopping lanes, Ottoman hans, synagogues, street food and traditional cafés. Best on weekday mornings; many shops close or quieten on Sundays.
Stay in Kemeraltı
Urla
Urla is İzmir’s leading food-and-wine day trip, mixing a compact old town with art cafés, markets, vineyards, beaches and ancient harbour archaeology. Spring and early autumn are ideal; check winery reservations and festival dates before travelling.
Stay in Urla
Alaçatı
Alaçatı’s stone lanes, design shops, restaurants, nightlife and windsurfing beaches make it İzmir Province’s most polished leisure destination. Late spring and September offer the best balance; July and August are crowded, hot and expensive.
Stay in Alaçatı
Eski Foça
Old Foça is a picturesque harbour town for seafood, stone-house lanes, ancient ruins, boat trips and one of the region’s best sunsets. Late spring through early autumn is best; sunset is particularly atmospheric outside the busiest July–August weeks.
Stay in Eski Foça
Çeşme
Çeşme centres a classic Aegean day around a castle-and-marina waterfront, swimming coves, seafood and lively summer evenings. Best from June to September for swimming; May, June and September are less congested than peak summer.
Stay in Çeşme
Sığacık
Sığacık offers a compact, photogenic castle quarter, a marina, seafood restaurants and one of İzmir Province’s best Sunday markets. Plan around Sunday for the market; May, June and September are the most comfortable months.
Stay in Sığacık
Şirince
This preserved hillside village is a popular add-on to Ephesus for stone lanes, Greek-Turkish heritage, fruit wines, village food and valley views. Spring and autumn are ideal; arrive early in summer to avoid tour-bus crowds and midday heat.
Stay in Şirince
Kadifekale
The hilltop ruins offer İzmir’s defining city panorama, with ancient fortifications and a dramatic walk above the historic centre. Go in late afternoon or around sunset, avoiding the hottest summer hours.
Stay in KadifekaleBook before you land
Top-rated tours and tickets in Izmir, with live prices from Viator.
Seven Churches of Revelation Tour ( Private)
from $1320
Private Ephesus Tour from Izmir
from $398
Private Izmir to Ephesus Full-Day Customizable Tour
from $359
Kusadasi Izmir Airport (ADB) Private Transfer
from $101
Ephesus Private Day
from $393
Private Express Ephesus Tour from Izmir Port / Cruisers only
from $303
4-Day Private Pilgrimage Tour to the 7 Churches of Asia Minor
from $1327
Wine Tasting Tour at Two Wineries in Urla Turkey
from $324
Prices from Viator; we may earn a commission when you book — at no extra cost to you. Tours are sold and operated by Viator, the merchant of record. Ratings are collected by Viator and Tripadvisor.
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The Izmir guide
Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.
Where to eat
Dining
Deniz Restoran
This is the city's premier white-tablecloth seafood institution, serving impeccably fresh catch directly on the Kordon since 1981.
Signature: Salt-baked sea bass
Kordon Yengeç Restoran
Offers a highly refined selection of Aegean mezes and fresh seafood right on the waterfront with a slightly more relaxed atmosphere than Deniz.
Signature: Octopus carpaccio
Tavacı Recep Usta
Housed in a grand, historic stone building near the Kordon, serving legendary lamb dishes cooked in traditional copper pans.
Signature: Sac tava (diced lamb cooked on a thin iron skillet)
Cumba Restoran
An upscale hillside establishment offering panoramic city views, famous for its dry-aged steaks and extensive wine cellar.
Signature: Dry-aged T-bone steak
Balmumu Lokanta
Chef Ahmet Güzelyağdöken curates rare, traditional Aegean stews and slow-cooked meats that are hard to find in modern restaurants.
Signature: Lamb stew with artichokes
Adil Müftüoğlu - Uğur Lokantası
A legendary tradesman's lunch canteen (esnaf lokantası) operating since the 1950s, serving exceptional slow-cooked Ottoman-Aegean classics.
Signature: Elbasan tava (baked lamb in a savory yogurt sauce)
Sakız Alsancak
Combines a modern waterfront setting with traditional Aegean meze recipes made with premium local olive oil.
Signature: Warm samphire (deniz börülcesi) in olive oil
Şerefe Meyhane
A lively contemporary tavern known for its vibrant atmosphere, excellent cold mezes, and local acoustic music.
Signature: Grilled mastic octopus
OD Urla
A Michelin-starred destination set in an olive grove, featuring an open-kitchen concept where dishes are cooked over an open wood fire.
Signature: Seasonal wood-fired tasting menu
Teruar Urla
A Michelin-starred restaurant and boutique guest house focusing on minimalist, ingredient-driven Mediterranean plates.
Signature: Handmade pasta with local wild mushrooms and truffles
Vino Locale
An intimate, Michelin-starred trattoria-style restaurant that changes its menu monthly to reflect the exact harvest of the region.
Signature: Slow-cooked beef cheek paired with local red wines
Meşhur Hisarönü Şambalicisi
A tiny, historic stall serving the city's most famous traditional semolina cake since 1942.
Signature: Şambali cake topped with clotted cream (kaymak)
Söğüşçü Cimbom
The ultimate spot to try the city's signature cold offal wrap, prepared with theatrical flair by the counter chefs.
Signature: Söğüş (spiced sheep's head meat, brain, and tongue wrapped in flatbread)
Tarihi Kemeraltı Börekçisi
A historic bakery serving incredibly flaky, savory pastries perfect for a quick, traditional morning bite.
Signature: Kıymalı su böreği (savory boiled pastry with minced meat)
Vegg'inn
A dedicated plant-based cafe offering creative bowls, sugar-free desserts, and veganized Turkish classics in a bright, modern space.
Signature: Vegan moussaka
Kısmet Lokantası
A traditional lunch spot that excels in seasonal vegetable dishes, offering an array of olive oil-braised greens and stuffed vegetables.
Signature: Stuffed zucchini flowers (kabak çiçeği dolması)
Yaşar Usta Sorbet
Famous for natural, dairy-free fruit sorbets made with zero artificial additives or preservatives.
Signature: Melon and fresh fig sorbet
After dark
Nightlife
1888
Housed in a beautifully restored Levantine mansion, this is the city's premier venue for house and techno music.
Kalt Izmir
A massive warehouse-style venue that regularly hosts international techno and electronic DJs.
Container Hall
A converted industrial space popular with the local university crowd for alternative music events and themed dance parties.
Sky Bar
Located atop the Swissôtel Büyük Efes, offering the most dramatic panoramic views of the gulf alongside high-end mixology.
La Puerta
A sprawling, travel-themed bar with an extensive international beer list and creative cocktails set in a lively courtyard.
Bios Bar
The city's go-to venue for live Turkish rock and alternative bands in an intimate indoor setting.
SoldOut Performance Hall
A modern, high-tech venue hosting major Turkish pop, rock, and jazz artists.
Ooze Venue
A massive, long-running concert hall catering largely to the student population with frequent rock gigs.
Art & history
Culture
Izmir Archaeological Museum
Houses an impressive collection of gold, bronze, and marble artifacts salvaged from ancient sites like Smyrna, Ephesus, and Miletus.
Arkas Art Center
Located in the historic French Consulate building, hosting world-class rotating art exhibitions from international collections.
Izmir Museum of History and Art
Features three separate pavilions dedicated to stone artifacts, ceramics, and precious objects from antiquity.
Izmir Clock Tower
Designed by French architect Raymond Charles Père in 1901, this elegant Ottoman-era tower is the definitive symbol of the city.
Tarihi Asansör
A historical brick elevator built in 1907 to connect the coastline with the steep clifftop neighborhood, offering panoramic views.
Agora of Smyrna
One of the few ancient agoras in the world built within a modern city center, featuring intact colonnades and vaulted chambers.
K2 Contemporary Art Center
A pioneering independent space supporting local and international avant-garde artists through exhibitions and residencies.
Ahmet Adnan Saygun Arts Center
A state-of-the-art cultural complex known for its world-class acoustics, hosting art galleries and classical concerts.
Kültürpark Atlas Pavilion
A spacious venue within the city's central park hosting large-scale contemporary art installations and cultural events.
Timing
When to visit
Spring
April to June brings mild temperatures, blooming wild herbs in the surrounding hills, and the annual Izmir International Festival, which hosts classical music and theater performances in historic venues.
Summer
July and August are intensely hot and humid. The city center empties out as locals flee to nearby beach towns like Çeşme and Alaçatı, though evening sea breezes bring some relief to the Kordon.
Autumn
September to November is excellent for exploring. The sea remains warm enough for swimming, the summer crowds have departed, and the grape harvest begins in the nearby Urla wine region.
Winter
December to March is rainy and chilly, though rarely freezing. It is a quiet time to explore museums and indoor bazaars without the tourist crowds.
What it costs
Budgeting
Logistics
Getting around
From the airport
Adnan Menderes Airport is exceptionally well-connected. The IZBAN suburban train line runs directly from the terminal to central stations like Alsancak and Hilal. Alternatively, Havaş shuttle buses run regularly to Alsancak and Karşıyaka, while city bus 202 offers a budget-friendly night service.
Public transit
The transit system is highly efficient, consisting of a metro line, an extensive tram network running along the waterfront, and the IZBAN commuter rail. The most scenic way to travel across the gulf is via the public passenger ferries connecting Konak, Alsancak, and Karşıyaka.
Passes & tickets
The İzmirim Kart is the essential reusable transit card. It can be purchased and loaded with credit at any major station for a low fee (budget band €), offering discounted fares and free transfers within a 120-minute window.
On foot
The central waterfront areas, including Alsancak, Konak, and Karşıyaka, are flat and highly walkable. However, moving inland toward neighborhoods like Karataş or Kadifekale involves steep climbs and uneven sidewalks.
Local etiquette
Safety & etiquette
- Dress respectfully when entering mosques (such as Hisar Mosque), covering shoulders and knees.
- Drinking alcohol in public parks along the Kordon is common and socially accepted, but avoid excessive public intoxication.
- Bargaining is expected in the Kemeraltı bazaar, but do so politely and with a smile.
Travel smart
Practical tips
- Get an İzmirim Kart immediately at the airport or metro stations for seamless travel across ferries, trams, and metros.
- Avoid taking unmetered taxis; always ensure the meter is running, or use the BiTaksi app to book.
- Visit Kemeraltı Bazaar in the morning when it is cooler and less crowded, and most food stalls are fully stocked.
- Take the ferry instead of the metro when crossing the gulf; it is cheap, scenic, and offers a classic local experience.
- Book Urla fine dining restaurants (like OD Urla) weeks in advance, as they operate on strict reservation-only policies.
- Wear comfortable, non-slip shoes when visiting the Agora or walking the cobblestones of Kemeraltı.
Before you go
Izmir FAQs
Is Izmir safe for solo female travelers?
Yes, it is widely considered Turkey's most liberal and progressive city, making it highly comfortable and safe for solo women.
How many days do I need to explore?
Three days is ideal to explore the city center, Kemeraltı, and take a day trip to Ephesus or the Urla vineyards.
Can I drink tap water?
No, locals do not drink tap water; stick to bottled water which is cheap and widely available.
What is the best way to pay?
Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere, but carry some cash (Turkish Lira) for small bazaar stalls and public transit cards.
Is English widely spoken?
Yes, in tourist areas, hotels, and trendy cafes, though learning a few Turkish phrases is highly appreciated in the bazaar.